| 4TH QTR 2013 |
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| 10/04/13 | 3.0 | 1308.9 | Glued in the next compression rib |  |
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| 10/07/13 | 3.5 | 1312.4 | Decided to glue the last two ribs since it takes about 2 hrs-15min for the glue to set up
enough to leave the fillets alone. This time I got smart and mixed up the glue and came back after 45 minutes and glued the
ribs in. I then waited until the glue just started to to harden before tooling the joint and making nice tight fillets.
I then only had to maintain them for about a half an hour or so.I also skipped the paper between the staple and the rib,
instead shooting them in with less air pressure and making them easier to remove.
I also used masking tape to keep the flying wire plates clean of glue then pulled it off when I was done maintaining the fillets.
Later that afternoon I measure and set the 7 degree sweep in the right wing.
(DISTANCE_FROM_CENTER - 28.3035) * 0.122785 = SWEEP_BACK_DISTANCE |
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| 10/08/13 | 3.5 | 1315.9 | Since I'm stuck babysitting glue joints for two and a half hours each time I decided to do all the right wing compression ribs at once. Double-checked the right wing was swept like it should be, then I prepared the area with cardboard on the floor and taped up the flying flying wire plates, and put air in my portable tank for the stapler, reduce to 40psi. I then mixed up three seperate cups of glue to reduce the mass heat generation and shorter working time associated with a huge cup of glue. I then waited about 45 minutes and glued the ribs in. I then waited awhile longer to wiped the excess glue away, tooled the joints and maintained them until the glue set. I like wiping excess glue away from the joints - its the only time I'll be able to make my airplane lighter with the simple swipe of a rag! |  |
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| 08/10/13 | 4.2 | 1320.1 | Got out the bags of drag blocks and figured them out, which ones going where. Also got out the raw stock for the -9 and -23 angle blocks. Cut the -9's and -23's to length and fit to each position. At home I milled the 5th outboard angle blocks to fit on the flying wire plates |  |
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| 10/11/13 | 0.9 | 1321.0 | Sorted and fit the drag blocks to their respective positions. To fit them I just had to sand a tiny bit off the sharp corners where they fit into the glue fillet between the rib and the spar. |  |
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| 10/13/13 | 2.4 | 1323.4 | Milled .25" off the rear spar drag blocks that sit on the plywood at the center aileron hinge. Cut some sections of 3/4" diameter round stock and milled flats on them so I could clamp against them when gluing blocks on. I cut little section from a paint stick to use as a measurement gage to center the blocks on the spar. I then glued all the -64 drag blocks onto the front spar. |  |
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| 10/15/13 | 1.8 | 1325.2 | Glued and clamped all the -63's and -65's on the front spar. |  |
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| 10/17/13 | 3.1 | 1328.3 | Made a locating jig out of scrap wood to center the blocks on the aft spar. Glued six of the blocks on the aft spar, then glued and stapled the -9 and -23 corner angles in. After a few hours I came back and Glued the rest of the blocks on the aft spar using the clamps and rounds used earlier that day. |  |
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| 10/18/13 | 1.5 | 1329.8 | Cut and fit angle -9 and -23 angles to the front of the front spar and aft face of the aft spar at the wingtips, and then glued them in along with the remaining -9 and -23's on the aft spar. Later in the afternoon I bought four 3/16 drill bushings. |  |
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| 10/19/13 | 2.0 | 1331.8 | Didn't feel like waiting for a loaner, and thought it would be fun to build a drill jig for drilling the drag wires. See pics for details. |  |
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| 10/20/13 | 2.2 | 1334.0 | More work on the drill jig. |  |
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| 10/21/13 | 2.1 | 1336.1 | Made an additional drill guide so I can drill spars and blocks from both sides and meet in the middle for more accuarcy |  |
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| 10/22/13 | 0.5 | 1336.6 | Painted the drill jig guides. |  |
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| 10/23/13 | 3.0 | 1339.6 | Did a bunch of research and looking at lot of pictures of wings under construction and then made the attached graphic image to use for laying out holes to drill the drag blocks. I also was able to get Kevin Kimball to error check it for me. The goal is ZERO MISTAKES drilled. |  |
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| 10/24/13 | 3.2 | 1342.8 | Got out and organized the drag washers and other hardware needed for the drag and antidrag wires. Using my diagram, I marked each block with an up or down arrow for HI or LO. I then made horizontal lines on each HI block 1/8" above and each LO block 1/8" below spar centerline. Used the appropiate square, double or scalloped washers to locate horizontally and draw a circular mark where the holes should go. I then used a very sharp center punch by hand to push in a mark exactly in the center of the circle. I then used the drill jig to drill holes in one outer bay, then ream the holes 13/64" and test fit some wires. The drill jig works great! |  |
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| 10/25/13 | 2.8 | 1345.6 | Reamed out the holes in the outer bay completed so far to 13/64 and test fit wires. Flipped to point around on point guide and drilled the holes in the inner bays that aim at the fittings on the compression member. Reamed and test fit wires. Used abungee cord and clamp to allow one person drilling of more drag wire blocks. |  |
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| 10/26/13 | 1.5 | 1347.1 | Drilling drag wire blocks first so drill jig stays in the same length for each hole. |  |
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| 10/28/13 | 0.9 | 1348.0 | Finished drilling drag wire blocks and started the anti-drag blocks. |  |
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| 10/29/13 | 0.7 | 1348.7 | Got the anti-drag wire holes drilled on the top left wing. |  |
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| 10/31/13 | 2.4 | 1351.1 | Drilled the last of the anti-drag blocks. Reamed all the holes to 13/64" then coated all the internal holes with System 3 epoxy clearcoat. Also coated the blocks too since washers will be going on them next. |  |
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| 11/03/13 | 1.7 | 1352.8 | Installed all the wires with washers, clevis etc. Then locked the washers in with 1/2"-20 gage nails. |  |
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| 11/04/13 | 0.8 | 1353.6 | Installed the lock nuts on the clevis forks, and then installed the cotters on the pins. It took awhile because there's not much room to work with pliers there. |  |
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| 11/06/13 | 2.6 | 1356.2 | Set up to measure the sweep of the right wing in prep for tightening its wires. Rather than use the 12.5" sweep at 130" span in the instructions which makes it difficult to clamp at the ends of the spars, I decided to use the outer face of the outer compression rib as before. Basically this is 11.77" sweep at 124.43" as determined by my autocad drawing. I clamped a straight edge in alignment with the comp rib outer face and then measured 11.77" out from the front spar face there then pulled some dental floss from the the upright sticks clamped to the center section spar. I also run a string along the nose ribs, as well an extra string above the from spar face edge so I could see any spar bending from two sources. I then tightened up the wires on that wing per the instructions, keeping the sweep at 7 degrees and the spar straight. |  |
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| 11/10/13 | 2.0 | 1358.2 | Setup another set of strings to measure left wing sweep and spar. Went through adjusting and tightening the left wing wires, then further adjustment on both wings to get all the wires essentially equal tightness with their similar length partners. |  |
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| 11/13/13 | 2.2 | 1360.4 | After reading some threads on our google group, I think I had the wires just a little too tight so I loosened them just a tiny bit, adjusting each nut equally to keep the wings in sweep and spar alignment with the strings. Double checked the strings, then added the double nuts. I then used a cutoff wheel to trim the excess wires, leaving about three threads. |  |
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| 11/15/13 | 5.1 | 1365.5 | Installed the phenolic discs inbetween the drag wires with zip ties. Put the discs back in with new BLACK zip ties rated for oudoor use. Don't use the white ones because they fail after a few years. Nailed small 18ga nails into the top and bottom of the spars just far enough so they can locate the truss ribs. I tapped in the top nail first, then used a machinist square to hold the rib square with the spar to locate the bottom nail. I glued in two truss ribs and while the glue cured I put nails in for the rest of the ribs. Afterwards I pulled the nails from the two ribs I glued. |  |
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| 11/16/13 | 3.0 | 1368.5 | Gluing more truss ribs on the right wing. |  |
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| 11/17/13 | 2.8 | 1371.3 | Gluing truss ribs on left wing. |  |
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| 11/20/13 | 2.5 | 1373.8 | Finished truss ribs on left wing. |  |
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| 11/21/13 | 3.5 | 1377.3 | Marked location of nose ribs on center front spar. Marked centerlines on the noseribs to align with centerline on spar face. Cut some 3/8" triangle stock for reinforcement. Glued and stapled nose ribs in using a straightedge laid across the two butt rib noses to adjust each nose rib to identical height. |  |
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| 12/02/13 | 2.1 | 1379.4 | Measured and marked lines on the aft spar for the center section tail ribs. Glued and stapled the ribs in with corner block strips. |  |
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| 12/03/13 | 2.8 | 1382.2 | Measured and marked the center of the -32 center section bow, then marked it so it would fit between the two outer tail ribs glued yesterday. Cut it on the bandsaw, and trimmed the ends to match the profile of the ribs. Glued bow in with custom cut corner blocking as needed. |  |
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| 12/04/13 | 0.6 | 1382.8 | Glued in the -21 hand hold plate with corner blocking. |  |
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| 12/10/13 | 0.7 | 1383.5 | Used a die grinder and sanding blocks to start shaping the bottom side of the bow. |  |
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| 12/11/13 | 0.6 | 1384.1 | Finished contour of the bow in preparation for the skins there. |  |
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| 12/17/13 | 2.0 | 1386.1 | Couldn't find the 1/16th shim material and so I cut some .050" douglas fir shim stock for the narrow strip for the aft edge of the aft spar where the skin goes. Cut and fit the larger of the -68 skins, then cut and sanded a step notch in the butt ribs for a smooth transition of the skin. Glued it on with a combination of staples, clamps and weights. Smoothed out the glue fillets on the underside of the skin. |  |
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| 12/18/13 | 0.6 | 1386.7 | Removed the clamps and staples etc. |  |
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| 12/19/13 | 1.5 | 1388.2 | Found the 1/16 ply shim stock, but elected to continue with the strips I cut earlier. Cut fit and glued in the other side of the -68 skin. |  |
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| 12/21/13 | 1.0 | 1389.2 | Rounded up the sticks for the aileron cove blocks and went down to Dons. Removed the stples and clamps etc from the other side skin, then did some shaping of the bow. Temporarily installed the hinge blocks then started cutting cove blocks to length, but discovered that they have shrunk down to .710" inches. Time to get advice from Kevin. |  |
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| 12/22/13 | 1.7 | 1390.9 | Decided to add wood to the cove blocks to get them to proper dimension, so I cut some douglas fir stock to fur the blocks out another .070" thick. Did more cutting of cove blocks to fit. Marked the blocks that go on the doublers so I can mill that material away at home. |  |
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| 12/23/13 | 1.0 | 1391.9 | Cut and glued the furring strips onto the cove blocks. |  |
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| 12/24/13 | 3.2 | 1395.1 | Milled the cove blocks down to .755" then went to Don's and glued some in. |  |
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| 12/31/14 | 1.8 | 1396.9 | Glued some more cove blocks in and then back at home I milled out some sections from the blocks that go on the doublers. |  |
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| QTR TOTAL | 91.0 | ||||||
| 4TH QTR 2013 |
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