1ST QTR 2009           •   •   • 
01/07/09 0.5 1000.7 Used an adjustable reamer to remove powdercoating from inside the engine mount bushings. Before that I couldn't get the 1/2 bolts through them.  Powdercoated mount on stand
01/15/09 2.0 1002.7 Borrowed a rolling transmission table from Don and then lifted the engine and crate up onto it so I could work on the engine easier. Took pics of the engine accessories in case I needed reference later. Using chain hoist to lift engine & crate Engine up on rolling table
01/16/09 4.0 1006.7 NOTE: DO NOT ROTATE PROP SHAFT OR MAG COUPLINGS OR YOU WILL HAVE TO RE-TIME THE IGNITION. Marked mags L and R with a sharpie pen, also made numerous marks at base of each magneto to help ensure I can put them back at the exact ignition timing the factory had them at. Removed mag covers and rotor cap/wires, secured them up out of the way. Removed mags. Removed the 6 nuts holding the oil pump / fuel pump tree, tried to remove it, but wasn't sure how hard to hit it! Made posting on the google group. Also see my Web Page dedicated to moving the engine from crate to motor mount. Mags marked with engine prior to removal Mag cover removed showing distributor cap
Dist cap off showing points etc Nuts removed from oil pump tree
01/17/09 2.5 1009.2 Found out that only just the 6 nuts come off so I used a wood pry bar to slide the oil pump tree off. Good thing I had a drain pan under it, a fair amount of oil came out too. Next I removed the russian generator adapter and of course had to test fit my B&C alternator, which fits good. All but one of the mag gaskets broke so I'll have to find a source for those, or make some.  Web Page Prying oil pump off Oil pump / fuel pump tree off
Removing Russian generator adapter Test fit of B&C alternator
01/19/09 1.0 1010.2 Removed steel primer line which blocks the ring from coming off the engine. Removed the cotter pins,  nuts and washers from the 8 rubber cushion mounts. It took a long time to take the cotter pins out with tight access. The cushion mounts are supposed to be tightened to a certain thickness measurement which I attempted to measure but I couldn't get a set of calipers in there. I took my little torque wrench and measured what torque they were set at, and it was amazingly low, 44 to 56 in·lbs! When I go to install the cushions on the engine mount I will probably end up making some sort of tool to set them at the right amount of compression. Didn't have enough time to pull the motor off the crate and tackle the ring, but a test lift confirmed the motor is loose! Web Page Removing primer line
Removing cushion nuts
01/23/09 4.0 1014.2 Don came over and we hoisted up the motor, pulled the ring off. Worried about scratching the powdercoat on the motor mount going back on we took one of the studs off the left magneto pad, as well as the compressor. Transferred cushions over to motor mount and installed it. Tightened cushions to 34.5cm per drawing I got from Motorstar. We set the rolling stand on its back under the motor and lowered the motor onto it. We then hoisted the stand up by the back crossmember and tippedit onto its wheels. Motor hoisted up ready to remove ring Cushions installled on motor mount
Lowering motor onto stand Motor on stand
02/23/09 4.5 1018.7 Made up a design for a drawer for behind the front seat, printed out the flat pattern for it and went over to Ken's. We cut it out and bent it up. Flat pattern taped to sheetmetal First flange bent Second flange bent All flanges bent
02/24/09 2.0 1020.7 Adjusted the angles of the bends. Since the corners had pretty large gaps, I got a short section of angle iron and milled the inner corners square. I clamped the angle on the outside of the corners to act like a mold. Welded up the inner corners, Then welded up the outer corners. Filed the corners square. Corner clamped for welding Inner corner welded Outer corner before/after welding Outer corner filed to shaped
02/25/09 3.0 1023.7 Trimmed the opening of the box to fit the drawer. Cut some MS20257-4 aluminum piano hinge to fit the bottom of the drawer. Fit and riveted (AN426AD-3-4 solid aluminum countersink head rivet MS20426AD-3-4) the hinge exposed so I could pull the pin to remove the drawer anytime. Setting the hinge Hinge located and drilled Squeezing rivets Drawer hinged
02/26/09 3.6 1027.3 Cut some small sections of 1/16" thick 3/4x3/4 aluminum angle for use as open limit stops to keep the drawer from opening too far. Clecoed them in place withy two clecos each. I had already bought a couple of point/roller drawer stops from my local hardware store. I then cut two more smaller sections of the aluminum angle to hold the rollers and riveted them them on. These rollers will be mounted to the box sides, with the aluminum angles giving them more support area compared to just attaching the rollers directly to the sides of the box. The points that the rollers capture will be riveted to the aluminum angles that are riveted to the drawer acting as limit stops. I used some small sections of welding rod and safety wire to hold the drawer and box exactly flush during the fitment of the hardware. I soon discovered that I had to trim the angles holding the rollers at a pretty acute angle for it to work properly with the drawer and not hit the fuselage's rear seat vertical tubes. Open Limit Stop Keeping drawer flush with box
Drawer latch hardware Latch mounts trimmed
02/27/09 4.0 1031.3 After some test fitting of the box/drawer onto the seatback tubes, I was able to determine where to mount the roller assemblies. I couldn't mount them too high because they would hit the fuselage tubes, or mount them down low, closer to the hinge would give them more room, but also reduce their mechanical advantage to keep the drawer shut during high G forces. I then located and riveted the points onto the drawer open limit stops, Flush riveted (MS20426AD-3-4) the drawer open limit stops onto the drawer sides, and I then drilled the holes through the sides of the box and countersunk the holes so I could use flush #6 countersink stainless screws.  The drawer latches have to be removable otherwise I cannot remove/install the drawer. Started work on a machined drawer pull handle. I just didn't like anything I saw at the hardware store. Latch clecoed into position Latch screws countersunk
Both latches in place Milling the drawer handle
02/28/09 1.0 1032.3 Finished milling the handle. Drilled and tapped the mounting holes 8-32. Cut some small chamfers on the edges. Located and drilled the four holes to mount it on the front face of the drawer. Handle roughed out Drawer handle holes tapped 8-32 Finished drawer handle
03/01/09 2.5 1034.8 Drew up a flange to attach to the backside of the seat box. This part will cover the top of the drawer when it's closed so the contents stay in during negative G flight. See Seat Box Inner Flange Flat Pattern Model of inner flange
03/02/09 3.0 1037.8 Printed out the flat pattern for the seat box flange. Went over to Kens and cut it out and bent it up. It was quite a bit of work to get the bend radius to match the drawer. Back home, I adjusted the bends to make it fit better. Drilled and clecoed it in place. Cut and welded the top cover on the drawer. Inner flange cut and curved Reducing the radius of the curve Inner flange clecoed in position
Drawer back cut Drawer back welded Test fit
03/03/09 0.6 1038.4 Some minor adjustment of the drawer catches and filing of the sharp edges. Riveted the inner flange in with MS20426AD-3-4 rivets. Box / drawer is now ready for paint. Again for reference the files to build this are here: Seat Box Flat Pattern    Drawer Flat Pattern   Inner Flange Flat Pattern Riveting the inner flange Seat box / drawer finished Seat box / drawer finished Seat box / drawer finished
03/21/09 3.0 1041.4 Decided to make the air bottle clamps lighter. At the start of this they weighed 220 grams each, quite heavy considering they are only holding a 3 lb bottle. I first milled the bases of the clamps down a bit. I then borrowed a rotary table from Ken. I also took a 5" diameter round of aluminum and made a cylindrical fixture to hold the clamps on the rotary table. On the lathe, I first I had to cut the ends square since the band saw leaves the ends anything but square. I then bored out the inside to be round Boring inside of fixture Turning fixture down on lathe
Finished fixture with step cut to hold bottle clamp Fixture with bottle clamp
03/23/09 7.0 1048.4 Over at Don's we cut a rectangular piece of steel to clamp the fixture to the rotary table. Back home I bolted the rotary table to the bridgeport, and then using a dial indicator, made the axis of rotation coincidental with the tool spindle of the mill. I then zeroed my dials there so I could put it back to center whenever needed. I then clamped the fixture to the rotary table after centering it on the rotary table with a dial indicator. I then spent many hours milling the clamps down thinner and thinner. To make them look nice I put a countersink in the bridgeport and milled a chamfer on all the edges. They now weigh about 104 grams each, less than half the weight before. Rotary table axis same as milling machine spindle Aligning fixture to center
Milling the clamps Finished clamps
03/25/09 1.5 1049.9 Now I couldn't go and use those cheap hardware store knobs on my new beautiful clamps, so I came up with a design for ones made out of aluminum. More fun with the machines! Here's the drawings for the knobs Model of Knob
03/26/09 2.8 1052.7 This project starts with some bar stock aluminum. I spot drilled the ends of the bar to  work with the live center in my lathe tailstock. I then held the other end of the bar with 2 of the 6 jaws of my chuck. After turning the end near the live center down to .500" I swapped the bar around and turned the other end down to .500". I then drilled the ends with a "F" size drill and tapped them 5/16-18, which is the thread size required by the steel thread inserts I plan to install later. I then cut the parts off the bar. Start with bar stock Drilling ends
Cutting parts off the barstock Parts ready for next step
03/27/09 4.8 1057.5 Put my mill vise up on the rotary table so I could mill the angle and radius features into the knobs. Once I figured the correct table angle that made the knob bases square with the milling machine it was easy to do the math and figure out the two rotary table angles to mill the sides at. To make sure I had the knob clamped in the vise at the center of the rotary table I zeroed it with the milling machine, then put the 1/2" shaft in a 1/2" collet in the bridgeport and clamped the vise with it all in alignment. I then cut the angles in the knobs 3/4" deep. I got the the nice finish by doing a "climbing" cut across one face, rotating the table and cutting across the center of the knob, then continuing the cut across the last face. After doing the angles, I then flipped them over and milled the 1/8" diameter slots using many incremental plunging cuts so as to not side-load the 1/8 diameter end mill and break it. Setup for milling features into knobs Centering knob before clamping in vise Milling angles into knob
Knobs with angles cut Cutting slots in the knobs Knobs with slots
03/27/09 1.0 1058.5 Cut the radius in the ends of the knobs. I clamped each knob in the vise with the outer end of the slot centered on the rotary table, then moved table to set the cutting tool at a larger than desired radius. I then figured out what angles to rotate the table from-to while cutting and gradually reduced the radius until it matched the side angles I cut yesterday. Radiusing the ends of the knobs Knobs after cutting radius
QTR TOTAL 58.3  
 1ST QTR 2009           •   •   •