2ND QTR 2013           •   •   • 
04/19/13 2.5 1230.0 Using some scrap pine, some old bearings and a pen insert, I made a tool to draw centerlines down the tops of the spars. My dad rode his motorcycle over and helped me mark all the rib centers on the forward and aft spars. We also double checked our work! Afterwards I used my protractor set to seven degrees to extend the rib centerlines on the tops of the spars. Centerline Marking Tool Centerlines On Spars
Centerlines On Spars Rib Centerlines On Tops Of Spars
04/26/13 1.9 1231.9 Made a couple of tools to help draw the rib outlines on the spars. Cut two strips of aluminum to match the rib thicknesses and then drilled a series of holes exactly (using the DRO on the milling machine) down the middle of them. Started marking the rib centerlines around the spars at the proper locations. Rib Outline Templates Machinist Square
Top View Centerline Marks Centerlines On Front Spar
04/28/13 1.5 1233.4 Finished marking the centerlines, then started marking the rib outlines using the tools made on the 19th. Used a protractor set to 7 degrees to help align the outline tools on the tops of the spars. This is more work than expected! Rib Out Line Top Of Spar Rib Outlines On Front Spar
04/30/13 1.2 1234.6 Still drawing lines on the spars Still Drawing Lines On The Spars
05/01/13 2.0 1236.6 Finished marking the rib outlines.Noticed that the inboard truss ribs need their spar openings beveled a little to allow them to slide closer into the spar splices. Afterwards I slid all the ribs onto the spars in their proper position. Trim Inboard Truss Rib Openings To Fit Ribs Fit Into Locations On Spars
05/02/13 0.6 1237.2 Test fitting the -44 front spar doublers, they will have to be trimmed to alow the compression rib into position, and so the top and bottom surfaces are co-planar with the top and bottom spar surfaces. Front Spar Doubler Test Fit Front Spar Doubler Test Fit
05/02/13 4.0 1241.2 Drew pencil lines on the doublers to mark the proper cuts. Set the table saw to 7 degrees and cut the vertical edges so the compression ribs can butt up against the doublers. Set saw to match the angle of the spar top/bottom bevel, then ripped the horizontal edges of the doublers. Test fit the doublers, and then masked off the surrounding wood areas so glue will not make a mess. Pulled the doublers off, mixed up some T-88 and glued them back on, followed by clamps and blocks. Lastly I cleaned the glue out of the big flying wire pin hole, and the rest of the joint. I then removed the masking tape when the glue just began to harden. Left the clamps on overnight. Doubler Vert Edges Trimmed Doublers Test Fit Setting Saw To Spar Top Angle
Ripping Horiz Edge Of Doubler Doublers Glued Tape Removed From Doubler Glue Joint
05/11/13 2.0 1243.2 Made a replacement plywood doubler for the front side of the right aft spar splice that I had to cut off so I could slide the center section ribs on. First I made up a drawing on autocad so I could figure out exactly where to place the holes. I then cut a blank out of 1/4 ply. Using the DRO's on my milling machine I drilled six 1/4" holes. I then used progressively bigger end mills until I had the center 3/4" landing wire pin hole at the right size. 130511_150955_NewDoublerBlank.jpg 130511_213708_HolesCutOnTheMIll.jpg
05/12/13 1.2 1244.4 Test fit the doubler in place and drew pencil lines on it to mark where to cut the top and bottom edges to match the rest of the spar splice. Mixed up some T-88 and glued the doubler in place. 130512_124948_GluingRightAftDoubler.jpg 130512_125036_AftRightDoublerGlued.jpg
05/13/13 2.1 1246.5 Fitting the aft right cabane attach fitting. With the doubler added, the splice was a little too thick for the the fitting to slide on, so I sanded each face of the doublers until it fit snugly.I then glued both ply doublers to the forward right spar splice. 130513_191421_AftRightCabaneFittingTestFit.jpg 130513_202817_RightFrontPlyDoublersGlued.jpg
05/14/13 0.5 1247.0 Removed clamps, test fit the front right cabane fitting. It fits good without adjusting thickness of the joint. 130514_085346_FrontRightCabaneFittingInPlace.jpg
05/15/13 1.0 1248.0 Glued up the forward left spar splice doublers. 130515_103937_ClampingGluedLeftFrontSparDoublers.jpg 130515_104305_DetailOfGlueJoint.jpg 130515_105719_LeftFwdDoublersGlued.jpg 130515_105744_JointWipedCleanBeforeGlueCures.jpg
05/17/13 1.7 1249.7 Got out the wood parts for the -40 and -45 aileron hinge doublers and test fit them to the spars. Set the table saw to the same angle as the spar faces, then cut the ends of the -40's to mate with the -14 compression ribs. Then I drew lines along the top and bottom edges of the doublers to know where to trim them to match the spars.I then trimmed the top edges on all the forward doublers 130517_125725_AileronDoublerBeforeTrimming.jpg 130517_130116_GettingSparAngle.jpg 130517_130352_SettingSawAngle.jpg
130517_134007_CutToMatchCompressionRib.jpg 130517_134600_MarkingDoublersForTrimming.jpg 130517_140847_TrimmingDoublerTopEdge.jpg
05/18/13 1.9 1251.6 Finished trimming the doublers. Taped up the compression rib areas to keep glue off them. Glued the doublers on the right wing. Todays pictures show how I mix epoxy using the jeweler's scale. I zero the scale with an empty cup, add some hardener and note the weight. Multiply that weight by 1.204 to get the epoxy weight. I then zero the scale again and that weight of epoxy. 130518_171317_DoublersAllTrimmed.jpg 130518_173851_BoltsGreased.jpg 130518_173939_ScaleWithT-88.jpg
130518_174242_HardenerWeight.jpg 130518_174334_AddingEpoxy.jpg 130518_175433_EpoxySpreadOnParts.jpg
05/19/13 1.3 1252.9 Removed the clamps and blocks from the right wing aileron doublers. Glued the -40 and -45 doublers on the left wing. 130519_111330_RightWingCenterAileronDoubler.jpg 130519_122103_LeftWingAileronDoublersGlued.jpg
05/22/13 1.7 1254.6 Glued on the -39 wing tank strap doublers. Masked off the faces of the spars to keep glue from making a mess on the spars. 130522_164853_WingTankStrapDoublers.jpg 130522_172932_WingTankStrapDoublersGlued.jpg
05/28/13 0.5 1255.1 Trimmed the excess wood to make the -39 tank strap doublers flush with the aft spar top and bottom faces. 130528_150034.jpg 130528_151343.jpg
05/30/13 4.4 1259.5 Flipped the wing over to work on the bottom spar caps, first the -41 and -43 strut area ply caps on the right wing. Cut some 1/4 rod and greased them to keep the spar caps aligned when gluing. Used the table saw and a belt sander to trim the spar caps to fit perfectly. Cut some angle blocks for clamping. Glued the two right wing strut caps on. Later that day I glued the Left ones on. 130530_113327_SparCapFitPriorToGLuing.jpg 130530_133644_ReamerUsedToAdjustBoltAngle.jpg 130530_133951_RippingSparCapsToSize.jpg
130530_134229_BeltSanderTrimsEdges.jpg 130530_155106_AngleBlocksCutForClamping.jpg 130530_155157_RightWingCapsGluedOn.jpg
06/02/13 2.0 1261.5 Removed clamps, sanded the caps of excess glue and cleaned out the I-strut hole with a 1/4" reamer. Moved on to the -46 center spar splice caps. Trimmed them to fit and put tiny nails into the spar splice to ensure they are in correct position when glued. I then glued the front spar caps in and stapled them to make sure they stay in position while glue cures. 130602_122232_SparCapSandedClean.jpg 130602_122358_MarkingSparCapForTrimming.jpg 130602_130912_CapFitsIntoRibSlightly.jpg
130602_134740_SencoSjsStapler.jpg 130602_134810_HalfInchStaplesUsed.jpg 130602_143003_SmallNailsLocateCapsDuringGluing.jpg
06/05/13 1.2 1262.7 Glued the aft spar -46 bottom caps on. 130605_114824_AftSpliceCapsGlued.jpg 130605_114837_AftSpliceCapsGlued.jpg
06/07/13 1.1 1263.8 Sanded and cleaned up the holes in the rest of the I-strut are caps. Marked and removed layers of plywood from the left wing aft -46 cap so the cabane fitting will fit into its proper position.What caused the small divot in the cap? I tried using my power planer set on the smallest increment 1/64th of an inch, but it still cut way too deep into the wood since the splice area was so small theere wasn't enough surface area to keep the planer flat. Ended up using a sharp hand chisel to finish the job of cutting layers of ply away evenly. 130607_133025_CleaningOutHoleWithReamer.jpg 130607_134618_CabaneFittingBeforeRemovingLayers.jpg
130607_143440_LayersRemoved.jpg 130607_143728_CabaneFittingInPosition.jpg
06/09/13 1.0 1264.8 Marked and removed layers of plywood from the right wing aft -46 cap, this time using my die grinder with a carbide burr. Very easy to remove a layer of plywood at a time until proper fit of the cabane fitting is acheived. Used a hand file in the corners and to radius the long edges to match the fitting. 130609_191030_CarbideBurrRemovesLayersAccurately.jpg 130609_192901_ThreeLayersShown.jpg
130609_194649_CabaneFittingInPlace.jpg 130609_194711_DetailOfFittingAndCap.jpg
06/29/13 1.5 1266.3 Had to move the top wing out of my barn to make way for my dad's motorhome. My friend Don is graciously allowing me to build it in his shop downtown. I cleaned up everything and put the wing on top of the truck for it's relocation. While I'll have to drive about 5 minutes each way, it will be nice to spend more time with my friend, and also work in an area with plenty of access. 130629_111518_TopWingOnTruck1.jpg 130629_111532_TopWingOnTruck2.jpg
QTR TOTAL 38.8  
 2ND QTR 2013           •   •   •